From Pizzas to Pesos: A Foodie's Guide to Eating in El Chalten

Food, Glorious (and Sometimes Surprising) Food

When we first arrived in El Chalten in 2006, the dining scene was simple: one restaurant. Return today, and you’re met with a dizzying array of choices. The catch? The options have become decidedly "Americanized." The menus are a familiar chorus of pizzas, burgers, fries, and pasta.

You can, of course, find authentic Argentine gems if you look, hearty "Locro" stew, simmered with corn, squash, beans, and meat, or the famously sublime steaks, which are, as expected, completely out of this world.

But no discussion of Argentine food is complete without mentioning the humble yet glorious empanada. These perfect baked or fried pastries are the ultimate staple, and honestly, everybody can find one they love. My personal favorite is the meat-filled variety, especially the spicy "carne picante". Of course, plenty of veggie options exist too. They are cheap, incredibly filling, and easily the best value food you can buy here.

As mentioned in a previous post, "Happy Hour" is the law of the land here, often stretching from 2 pm until 8 pm, or even longer. It’s a very happy hour indeed! However, compared to our adopted home in Andalucia, eating out is expensive. A basic main course will set you back ARS 25,000-28,000 (about $18-$20), and a pint of beer starts at ARS 8,000 ($6), though Happy Hour dutifully halves that price. With deals lasting most of the day, the biggest challenge is often resisting the temptation to over-indulge.

The Great Supermarket Safari

So, what do you do when you want to save some cash? You eat in. This is easier said than done and requires military-level planning, especially when your kitchen boasts only two working hobs and a kettle.

The supermarkets here are a world away from those in Western Europe. Stepping into one is like travelling back in time 25 years to my early days in rural Andalucia. There are three small local shops on the main drag, Avenida San Martin, and shopping in them is a unique experience.

First, forget trollies or baskets. Your shopping cart might be an old cardboard box if you're lucky, or you'll be left regretting you didn’t bring a rucksack. Second, no single store sells everything. After a few weeks, you learn the drill: Shop A is the toilet roll king, Shop B might have cereal, and the best broccoli is a trophy find. Fresh vegetables are a luxury due to the immense resupply distance. We are, after all, at the bottom of the world.

When a truckload of fresh carrots arrives, I imagine it’s immediately surrounded by a horde of zombie-like shoppers.

The most surreal moment? Seeing a dog waiting patiently at the meat counter. We were stunned. But here, nobody bats an eye; the dogs are quietly tolerated.

You join the queue with your lone banana, carrot, avocado, and prized piece of broccoli. Each item is conscientiously weighed and handed back to you—plastic bags are a distant dream.

A Fistful of Surprises: The Checkout Drama

Then comes the payment. Nine years ago, on our last visit, no one took cards. No one! You needed US dollars, with change given in Argentine pesos. So, we arrived in 2025 with a "Fistful of Dollars," ready for "A Few Dollars More." And what did we find? Everyone now expects card payments. Doh!

So, at the counter, you must ask: "¿Puedo pagar en dólares?"

Most places will accept them, to be fair, but some won't, so it's best to check first. You'll be given a less-than-ideal exchange rate and your change in a collection of the most paltry, worn, and torn-looking pesos you’ve ever seen.

Culinary Creativity on Two Hobbs

You finally get home with your meagre supplies and face the final challenge: what to create? With two pans, two hobs, and limited ingredients, concocting a meal becomes a fun, if not comical, game of culinary survival.

To be honest, we haven’t done too badly. Even Gordon Ramsay might have a grudgingly kind word for us. Maybe?

Our greatest edible hits include: Vegetable Stew, Vegetable Pasta, and Vegetable Chilli. Sensing a common denominator yet?