Feathered Findings November 19th, 20th & 21st

Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. 

• Magellanic Woodpecker 
• Crested Caracara 
• Ashy-headed Goose
• Patagonian Sierra Finch 
• Austral Negrito 
• White-browed Ground Tyrant 
• Dark-faced Ground Tyrant 
• Austral Parakeet 
• Buff-winged Cinclodes 

The trip was a flood of memories. We camped at Piedra del Fraile, the same spot that served as our first night's camp on all five of our previous icecap expeditions. From there, we set out on a walk towards the icecap, feeling its familiar, magnetic pull—perhaps from the way the mountains converge, or something more intangible. This time, however, we resisted and turned uphill towards our planned destination: the glacial Laguna Pollone.

Since we weren't heading onto the icecap, I could afford a rare luxury: carrying the weight of a proper camera and lens. My previous visits to this area were documented only with a small point-and-shoot, so I was eager to see what might reveal itself. Sadly no Huemul but with only around 74ish in the national park I guess you have to be extra lucky to come across them in this vast landscape. We also didn't see a Puma, not sure if that's lucky or not, I have mixed feelings about bumping into this predator. Half of me thinks it would be amazing to see one and the other half thinks nope I'd rather not see one! There had been one hanging around Piedra del Fraile for 3 days, a year or so ago, but it hasn't been back, well not that anyone has seen. You can view the video here. Thanks to Pedro for allowing us to share it with you.

The hike began under an overcast sky, casting the forest into a deep, dark shade—a challenging light for photographing birds. Then we heard it: the unmistakable double-rapid drum of a Magellanic Woodpecker. I quickly spotted a red-headed male just off the path. He was shrouded in shadow, but I took a few hopeful shots. Thankfully, he then flew across the path to a more open area with better light and began searching for food. We watched him for a while, took our photos and video, and left him to his work.

As the path drew near the Rio Electrico, we took a short break at the forest's edge and spotted a lone Ashy-headed Goose perched atop a boulder. We soon reached the campsite, pitched our tent, dropped off our heavy gear, and took a short exploratory walk to scout the route we had planned for the next day.

That next day, we changed our plans. After seeing how steep the initial route was—and watching younger, fitter hikers struggle—we opted for the walk to Laguna Pollone instead. The day was perfect: clear blue skies, not a breath of wind (a true rarity), and wonderfully warm. The lake itself is a spiritual place, though honestly, this entire area feels that way.

The birdlife here consists of true specialists, survivors in a land of crazy weather. (I'm a bit unsure about some of my identifications, so please let me know if you spot any errors!). Back at the campsite that afternoon, we relaxed by the river, hoping a Torrent Duck might swim by—though I'm not sure they frequent this stretch. A pair of Crested Caracaras provided the entertainment, their antics amusing us as we enjoyed a beer. Meanwhile, a pair of what I believe were Chilean Swallows darted around the campsite, seemingly searching for a place to build a nest.

On the morning of our third day, we said farewell to our wonderful host, Pedro, and a fellow camper, Jana—yes, we made friends! We headed back into the forest, retracing our steps towards the Poincenot campsite. Along the way, we were interrupted by a pair of Austral Parakeets who squawked loudly, demanding a photo before they would let us pass. Unfortunately, they were poorly positioned, and the photos didn't make the cut—please don't tell them if you ever meet!

The day gradually shifted from birding to a focus on flowers and scenery. Once we joined the popular route to Laguna de los Tres, the wildlife seemed to have scattered. When we reached a sign stating it was only 8km back to El Chalten, we made a spontaneous decision: we went for it. Having been spoiled by the tranquility of the previous days, we weren't feeling the busy Poincenot campsite, especially on a holiday weekend.

About two hours from El Chalten, we heard the drumming of a Magellanic Woodpecker once more. This time, it was a pair. Every other hiker passed by without a glance. The birds were silhouetted on a dead tree against the now-cloudy sky, creating a powerful image. Soon, they flew off—they, too, apparently agreed it was too busy.

We finally arrived back at our apartment after a 21km day. We were shattered, with sore feet, but our souls were completely full.

You can read more on Richard's report