Mountains of rock and ice have white clouds swirling around the summits The Patagonia Diaries
November 1st, 2025

Day 1 Rio de las Vueltas, Pumas, Pesos, and Pre-Owned Cars

Hiking

The day began, as so many do, at the National Park office. It was a visit that proved more worthwhile than we could have imagined. We were hit with the news straight away: a whopping $45 per person, per day, to hike in the park. Considering we're here for over a month, that number was enough to make our wallets whimper!

Alongside Rio de las Vueltas

Fortunately, we discovered a loophole in the form of an annual pass for 225,000 pesos (about $160 each). Still a significant investment, but our best option by far. The real win, however, was securing permission to bivouac at a couple of potential overnight spots. Victory!

The park office also came with a serious briefing on how to deal with puma encounters. I have to admit, the idea of any self-respecting puma choosing to linger anywhere near the hundreds of daily tourists seemed a little far-fetched. Our suspicions were confirmed when the closest we got to a big cat was this little fella peeking out from the bushes (see photo).

Is it a Puma?


Stepping back outside, we noticed another curious local phenomenon: the art of holding onto a car forever! The streets are a rolling museum of automotive dedication (see photo).

One careful owner

With our permits sorted and our puma knowledge (theoretically) up to scratch, we set out on a hike close to town to acclimatise and get used to the wind and cold after our Spanish summer. We followed the banks of the Rio de las Vueltas, and the scenery was nothing short of stunning. While Kiersten was busy capturing some truly great shots of the local birdlife, I tried to do justice to the vast, breathtaking landscapes with my camera. Not a long walk but enough for our first full day here.

So stunningly beautiful here. The first day has set a high bar.

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