Canuto de Paredón, El Chaltén's Best-Kept Secret

The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The perfect solution? A half-day adventure in the Cerro Paredón hills, a range that's quickly becoming my favorite escape from the well-trodden paths of El Chaltén.

What makes it so special? Just 30 minutes after leaving town, you're rewarded with marvellous views over the iconic Cerro Torre and Mt. Fitzroy ranges. Forget fighting the crowds on the popular Parque Nacional trails; this is your shortcut to serenity and spectacular scenery. And the best part? It's located outside Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, so there's no ARS 40,000 entrance fee. Yes, it's completely free!

Dotted with small, reflective lakes and offering panoramic mountain vistas, this walk is a stunning contrast of landscapes that will keep any hiker engaged.

Ascent of "Canuto de Paredón"

There are gentler approaches from the north and south, but we opted for the direct and brutally steep route. We started from the bridge over the Río de las Vueltas and headed up an unmarked gully we've nicknamed the "Canuto de Paredón."

The stats tell the story: it climbs over 200 vertical metres in just over 250 horizontal metres. While not quite a 45-degree slope, it feels like it. The lower section requires you to "gird your loins" before transitioning into simple scrambling over boulders. It's easy enough, but the combination of steepness and effort will have your chest heaving. The only strategy is to take it slow.

Just when you think you've found a rhythm, the trail enters the wooded upper slopes. Don't expect relief here; the angle actually steepens. This is where the hike becomes an adventure. "Tarzan-like" tactics are essential, hauling yourself up using trees, branches, and even exposed roots, moving from one hold to the next like a demented orangutan. After rain, the slippery mud makes it even more challenging. Thank goodness for shoes with decent tread! This route is a tough ascent and we wouldn't recommend it for the descent, though we did see a few brave (or foolish) souls tempting fate.

The Reward: A Patagonian Shangri-La

After a grueling 30 minutes, the angle finally eases. You emerge from the woods and turn north into what can only be described as a Shangri-La. To your left, jagged, glacier-strewn pinnacles tower above dizzying drops down to El Chaltén. To your right, pastoral countryside unfolds with peaceful woods and those idyllic small lakes, a paradise for birdwatchers ("Twitchers"). Ahead, the snowy peaks surrounding Lago del Desierto complete the marvellous panorama.

This is the time to find a sheltered spot from the sun or wind and simply soak it all in.

The Ridge Walk and Descent

The journey north along the narrow path is a joy. Don't forget to detour to the lakes, they make for perfect picnic spots. Be sure to stick close to the cliff edge for those breathtaking, vertigo-inducing views down to the Río de las Vueltas and the valley floor.

Fortunately, the descent is much, much easier than the ascent. A well-defined path west, just before the final lake (which is also worth a visit!), zigzags gently down to a dirt track. From there, it's an easy and pleasant walk back to the bridge and into town.

Final Thoughts

The Cerro Paredón hike is the perfect introductory walk to the area or a brilliant option for a poor weather day. In fact, I can't think of a better one. Very often, the weather gods unleash their venom over the mountains west of town, completely forgetting little old Cerro Paredón, which is often basking in sunshine while the giants are shrouded in cloud.

It’s a challenging, rewarding, and utterly beautiful escape from the ordinary.