The Return Journey, A Patagonian Farewell
The journey home was a breeze, a stark, welcome contrast to the stress and queues of the outward leg. This was the easy part, a...
Archives
2025
The Hidden Lake: To Share or Not to Share?
The secret was offered over a casual meeting with our friends Patricia and Nicolas at the Kau Si Aike Hosteria in El Chaltén. They spoke...
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The Condor’s Call, A Test of Patience in Patagonia (Part 2)
Silence from us usually means one of two things: utter failure, or the intense focus that precedes a hard-won victory. For the last few days,...
Feathered Findings November 27th
We scrambled up to a favourite view point in time for the afternoon return of the Condors. Yes I've studied the habits, I know what...
The Day the Condor Didn't Show
Kiersten's portfolio from our trip is already overflowing with marvellous bird images. But one kingly absence remained: a close-up of the legendary Andean Condor. We...
A Hidden Loop: Discovering the Eastern Side of the Río de las Vueltas Valley
A short walk from the edge of El Chaltén, a metal bridge offers a gateway to the quieter, eastern side of the Río de las...
Feathered Findings November 19th, 20th & 21st
Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. • Magellanic Woodpecker • Crested Caracara • Ashy-headed Goose • Patagonian Sierra...
Down Memory Lane to the Refugio del Fraile
A return to a classic Patagonian refuge reveals how the landscape, and the experience of trekking through it, has transformed over nearly two decades. The...
Canuto de Paredón, El Chaltén's Best-Kept Secret
The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The...
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Expedition to the Bridge: A Tale of Patagonian "Toughness"
We fancied ourselves tough. I mean, genuinely hardy. Our resumes boasted five expeditions across the great Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a place where the wind...
From Pizzas to Pesos: A Foodie's Guide to Eating in El Chalten
Food, Glorious (and Sometimes Surprising) Food When we first arrived in El Chalten in 2006, the dining scene was simple: one restaurant. Return today, and...
Feathered Findings November 16th
Some of the finds from Sunday's walk. We seized a small break in the Patagonian weather for a walk to Chorillo del Salto. As I...
Chorillo del Salto and a Race Against the Patagonian Wind
We were stealing a day. Sandwiched between brutal weather alerts for wind and rain, we had a precious half-day window. The target? Chorillo del Salto,...
The Apartment
We’ve been housebound, or more accurately, apartment-bound, for the last few days. The reason? Patagonia is showing off outside our window with hurricane-force winds and...
Feathered & Furry Findings November 13th
Some of my favourite finds from today's half day walk up a windy Cerro Antenna. • Andean Condor • Guanaco • Long-tailed Meadowlark Just as...
A Windy morning on Cerro Antenna
The Patagonian weather is finally breaking. After days of settled conditions, the script has flipped: while patches of sun still linger, the peaks are now...
Feathered Findings November 10th
Some of my favourite finds from our aborted bivvy on Loma de Pliege Tumbado. After my illness cost us several good weather days, we decided...
How a Bottle of Malbec Lured Me Off the Mountain
"I don't think the clouds are going to change color," Kiersten said, her voice barely audible over the wind screaming across the ridge. I grunted,...
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly of Laguna Torre
Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel tales,...
Feathered Findings November 7th & 8th
Some of my favourite finds during our two day camping trip to Laguna Torre, returning via a Laguna Capri. The Torrent Duck obviously has it's...
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